It's common to see the terms "handmade" or "handcrafted" on leather goods. However, many use machines for the main stitching. At SHLURA , we opt for 100% handmade production, with each stitch executed by hand using time-honored techniques.

Our hand-sewing technique

At SHLURA , we practice straight hand stitching with thick thread, a demanding method distinguished by:

• Perfectly aligned points, with slight variations due to human work.
• An oversized wire (1.2mm) for exceptional strength.
• An unbreakable construction where the leather will give way before the stitching.

This technique, inherited from traditional saddlery workshops, cannot be faithfully reproduced by a machine.

Hand sewing vs. machine sewing: the key differences

	Our hand-sewing	Machine sewing
Strength and durability	A single thick thread that forms knots at each stitch. If the thread breaks, the seam still holds. Oval-shaped holes that protect the leather.	Two thin, intertwined threads. Risk of unraveling if one thread breaks. Round holes are more aggressive.
Aesthetics and authenticity	Slight variations between the stitches, marked relief of the thick yarn.	Perfect regularity, more "industrial" appearance.

How to recognize a machine seam

1. Stitch Regularity and Size

Machine stitching is characterized by perfectly regular stitches. Each stitch is identical in size and spacing, resulting in a uniform and often stiffer appearance. The holes punched are generally round and can be more abrasive to the leather.

2. Type and Size of Thread Used

Machines generally use fine threads, often made of nylon or polyester, with a diameter of 0.6 to 1 mm. These threads are smooth and perfectly regular, less visible and do not create the pronounced relief typical of hand-sewn seams.

3. Reverse Side of the Couture

On the reverse side of leather, machine stitching often shows visible and uniform thread loops. These loops are the result of the machine interlacing the threads. In contrast, hand-stitched seams have invisible knots within the thickness of the leather, making the reverse side cleaner and less noticeable.

4. Tools and Techniques

Industrial sewing machines are equipped with precise mechanisms that allow for fast and even stitching. The holes punched by the machines are generally round and can be more aggressive on the leather, which can affect its long-term durability.

Visual differences between saddle stitching and machine stitching

• Saddle stitching : The stitches are slightly angled and exhibit a slight variation, typical of handcrafted work. The stitches are also more spaced out and the thread is thicker, giving a robust and authentic look.
• Machine stitching : The stitches are perfectly aligned and uniform, with regular spacing. The threads used are finer, giving a cleaner, more industrial look.

Lifespan of machine and hand sewing

Hand-sewn

Hand-sewing, as practiced at SHLURA , is synonymous with durability and strength. Here's why:

• Wire resistance The use of a thick, strong thread, often waxed linen, ensures exceptional durability. This type of thread is less likely to break under tension and is more resistant to wear and tear over time.
• Sewing technique Each stitch is individually knotted, meaning that even if one thread breaks, the rest of the seam remains intact. This method reduces the risk of the seam completely unraveling.
• Leather preservation : The oval-shaped holes, characteristic of hand stitching, preserve the integrity of the leather by reducing stress points, thus extending the life of the item.

In short, hand-sewn items are designed to last for decades, even generations, and their quality often improves over time, developing a unique patina that tells the story of their use.

Machine sewing

Machine sewing, while quick and efficient, has different characteristics in terms of durability:

• Thread and technique Machines generally use finer threads and regular stitches. While this gives a neat and uniform appearance, thin threads can be more vulnerable to wear and breakage.
• Risk of seam wear If a thread breaks, there is a higher risk of the stitches coming undone, because stitches are often formed by interlacing two threads. If one thread breaks, the other can unravel more easily.
• Impact on leather : The rounder and more aggressive holes drilled by machines can weaken the leather over time, especially if it is subjected to repeated stress.

Although machine seams are strong and suitable for many everyday uses, they may not offer the same longevity as hand-sewn seams, especially under heavy use.

In conclusion, while both techniques have their merits, hand sewing is often preferred for high-quality, long-lasting items where craftsmanship and durability are paramount. Machine sewing, on the other hand, is ideal for mass production where speed and uniformity are essential.

Our traditional tools

SHLURA perpetuates this expertise with:

• Diamond-shaped awl for piercing without tearing.
• Linen thread waxed with beeswax for maximum strength.
• Saddler's clamp for a perfect hold.
• Dry point compass for precise drawings.